This is a compilation of info gathered from several forums. It'll serve as my check- and shopping list when I'm good 'n ready for the swap. In this configuration it should deliver anything between 300 and 400 hp at the wheels with relative ease.
RB20DET specs | RB Power
Stage I - stock power
Besides the regular maintenance items (spark plugs, filters etc):
[O i l & w a t e r]
Stage II - Power upgrades
[A i r]
And if the Turbotech doesn't work, I can always turn to the APEXi AVC-R Boost Controller - €430
[C o o l i n g]
Alternatives: Mishimoto G-line intercooler, GT-R FMIC - $200
[ Stage III mods ] E n g i n e
RB20DET specs | RB Power
Stage I - stock power
Besides the regular maintenance items (spark plugs, filters etc):
- RB20DET silver top ('88 - '93 HCR32 Skyline) + complete wiring harness + ECU + motor mounts + gearbox ~€1500 from Japandyno.com
- custom made rear sump oil pan (or 200 ZR's) - $500
- 240SX throttle cable ($85 FRSport)
alt: (Pioneer CA-8889 ?? - $42 amazon.com), Lokar LS1 throttle cable - $60 [Summit racing] - OEM timing belt - $60
- OEM timing idler pulley - $100
- OEM timing tensioner pulley - $45
- OEM Gasket kit - $200
alt.: Cometic head gasket kit - $260 - OEM water pump - $90
- Nismo thermostat 62C - $75
- OEM Z32 fuel filter - ($20)
- O2 sensor
- Splitfire coil packs (SF-DIS-001) - $475 (~€355)
alternatives:
RB26 GT-R coils
Z32 ignitor (FAST #22020) + GM wasted spark coil pack and plug wires
[O i l & w a t e r]
- Oil cooler
- ISIS oil filter relocation kit - $125
Greddy oil filter relocation kit #12024901 - €163
Driftworks oil filter relo kit + oil cooler - £444 - Oil catch tank - €49
- Nissan RB N1 oil pump - $325
- Extended crank collar - $115
Stage II - Power upgrades
[A i r]
- Z32 AFM (Bosch part no. F00E000202) - £53 / $200 (used) / $500 (new)
alt: Q45 (allows more airflow) - APEXi super suction kit Z32 AFM (80mm) 538-N040
alt.:
APEXi power intake kit - $89
HKS racing suction kit reloaded (70020-AN010) - € 320
- Nistune R32 ECU package - € 475
- DeatschWerks 550s top feed (18U-02-0550-6) - $369 (650cc $429)
- Nismo Type B fuel pressure regulator - $240
The Type-B does not bolt to the end of fuel rail like the Type-A, but rather it can be mounted any place of choice inside the engine compartment. Type-B must be used with Tomei/Nismo FPR fitting ($59).
- Exhaust manifold:
HPI HPEX-RB20TA42 - € 1041 (RB20TB42 discontinued) - turbo:
rebuilt (hybrid) turbo (2, 3) - machined stock compressor, and machined stock exhaust housings to suit bigger wheels, with Garrett TB03 CHRA wheel:
72 trim T3 shaft
46.5x60 compressor wheel (60 trim T3 compressor wheel)
58.9x48.7 exhaust wheel
Here's one making 363HP (308RWHP) / 354 ft.lbs (vs 215HP / 195 ft.lb stock) after a tune by FC Tuning.
alternatives:
- Raw brokerage turbo upgrade - €690 (with core) rated at 400whp OR
- HyperGear turbocharger high flow
- Garrett GT3076R bolt-on kit AU$2635
- HyperGear ATR43 G1 T3 .63 400HP (242.8kW / 325HP) AU$1250 (€950) + oil feed line AU$80 OR
- Garrett GT2871R making 230kW / 308 HP at wheels
- HKS GT2540 turbo (T3 flange); bolts onto the standard manifold
- GT2530 on 18psi
- Greddy TD06-20G turbo
RB20DET turbo upgrades + dyno results (Skylines AUS) - Split dump pipe - AU$99
- Turbotech manual boost controller AU$29
 |
| Apparently works like a charm |
- Turbotech Boost Controller Solenoid for 2 Stage Upgrade - AU$80
 |
| Switch between stock boost and über boost |
[C o o l i n g]
- Blitz intercooler SE kit (SKU#23100) - AU$600 / € 245
 |
| Return flow type with exit on side of stock intake manifold |
[ Stage III mods ] E n g i n e
- ACL bearings:
connecting rod bearings 6B2630H(X) - $75
main bearing set 7M2394H(X) - $117 - Ross MetalJacket RB20DET Harmonic Balancer #306200 - AU$590
- Tomei cam gears; intake / exhaust $109 ea.
alt.: Lewis Engines Timing/cam gears - AU$218 - Timing belt:
Tomei timing belt - $172 (~€127)
Nismo timing belt - ¥15246
Gates timing belt - AU$113 - Valve spring set - AU$240
- Tomei valve springs €259 + Kameari valve guides €410
- Head gasket:
Cometic metal head gasket 78mm x 1mm - $161
HKS head gasket - AU$362 (~€262)
Cometic - AU$218
Tomei head gasket 1.2mm - ¥29000 (~€280) - Supertech pistons P6-RB20/78.5-CR8.5 (0.5 overbore) - $553 FRSport.com
piston rings $105 (OEM piston ring set $115) - Arias AP340446 pistons 79mm / 8.6:1 SRP$878
Cams
Stage IV mods
Lewis Engines external oil pump kit - AU$2363 (~€1712)
Ross tuffbond external oil pump kit
Intake manifold
Raw brokerage pro-flow intake manifold
Plazmaman vs Greddy
"The main difference is that the Plazmaman retains the standard runners, where the Greddy has shorter runners incorporated into the unit. This design feature of the Greddy in simple terms, creates more top end power at the expense of mid range torque. The longer factory runners helps bring boost on at an earlier rpm (have seen 300-500rpm better spool!!!) so if you want your turbo to spool faster, make more useable mid range power/torque but miss out on a little bit of peak hp, then the Plazmaman is for you. If you only care about the number on the dyno, get the Greddy.
The Plazmaman sits up higher the whole way along and as such becomes unsuitable for some installations (such as RB25's into s13's, rb20's into old school Capri's etc).
I have been told by Plazmaman that they can be "made to fit" without hitting the bonnet with a 30 bottom end. What that actually means I do not know as I didn't really ask.
We made custom lowered engine mounts to get it to fit. Was much better than spacing down the subframe. "
Greddy doesn't make any for the RB20DET so that makes it even easier. From AU$865 (~€650)
Swap info
motor mounts
Oil control
Tomei oil restrictor
Cylinder head oil drain
Crank collar issue
The crank collar issue is the snout on the end of the crank. Some snouts are short, some are longer. The snout itself is what drives the oil pump. The short snouts have less contact area on the oil pump compared to the long snout. JUN auto sells the crank collar kit to convert the short snout to a long snout design for around $50 to your front door. Machine work is required to use this kit.
info source
On the tip of the crank there a flattened part that slips inside your oil pump. From the factory this only overlaps 3 mm into the oil pump. As you can imagine, engine wears out, you get a bit of play from the main bearings combined with years of slapping back and forth on this drive. Eventually it can just spin freely in there. It sheers off part of the "flattened" part and has nothing to grab on anymore.This is aggravated a lot of times by using the rev limiter or generally hard driving.
To fix: R33 crank (still doesn't overlap all that well) or Oil drive collar (slips on the crank and extends the oil drive) and New Oil Pump of some sort.
- GTR cams will work, specs are (inlet/exhaust):
Timing 240 / 236
Lift 8.58 / 8.58
Lobe Centre Angle 113 / 125 - RB26DETT OEM cam shafts
Alt: Tomei poncam cam shaft 260° 8.5mm - €500 (no adjustable cam gears, no valve spring upgrade reqd.)
- Tomei procams + adjustable pullies - 270°, 9.25mm or 10.25mm - 683EUR
Tomei solid lifter set - 410EUR
Tomei valve springs - 238EUR - HKS cam shafts - 264° Duration Intake/Exhaust, 9mm lift Intake/Exhaust
HKS valve springs
Tomei adjustable cam gears
Stage IV mods
Lewis Engines external oil pump kit - AU$2363 (~€1712)
Ross tuffbond external oil pump kit
Intake manifold
Raw brokerage pro-flow intake manifold
Plazmaman vs Greddy
"The main difference is that the Plazmaman retains the standard runners, where the Greddy has shorter runners incorporated into the unit. This design feature of the Greddy in simple terms, creates more top end power at the expense of mid range torque. The longer factory runners helps bring boost on at an earlier rpm (have seen 300-500rpm better spool!!!) so if you want your turbo to spool faster, make more useable mid range power/torque but miss out on a little bit of peak hp, then the Plazmaman is for you. If you only care about the number on the dyno, get the Greddy.
The Plazmaman sits up higher the whole way along and as such becomes unsuitable for some installations (such as RB25's into s13's, rb20's into old school Capri's etc).
I have been told by Plazmaman that they can be "made to fit" without hitting the bonnet with a 30 bottom end. What that actually means I do not know as I didn't really ask.
We made custom lowered engine mounts to get it to fit. Was much better than spacing down the subframe. "
Greddy doesn't make any for the RB20DET so that makes it even easier. From AU$865 (~€650)
Swap info
motor mounts
Oil control
Tomei oil restrictor
Cylinder head oil drain
Crank collar issue
The crank collar issue is the snout on the end of the crank. Some snouts are short, some are longer. The snout itself is what drives the oil pump. The short snouts have less contact area on the oil pump compared to the long snout. JUN auto sells the crank collar kit to convert the short snout to a long snout design for around $50 to your front door. Machine work is required to use this kit.
info source
On the tip of the crank there a flattened part that slips inside your oil pump. From the factory this only overlaps 3 mm into the oil pump. As you can imagine, engine wears out, you get a bit of play from the main bearings combined with years of slapping back and forth on this drive. Eventually it can just spin freely in there. It sheers off part of the "flattened" part and has nothing to grab on anymore.This is aggravated a lot of times by using the rev limiter or generally hard driving.
To fix: R33 crank (still doesn't overlap all that well) or Oil drive collar (slips on the crank and extends the oil drive) and New Oil Pump of some sort.
 |
JUN's crank collar construction |
